“You shoulda been here last week mate”…yeah, yeah, yeah, I was surfing So Cal as good as summer gets…ever! Going from the longest warmest days of the year to the shortest (not quite coldest). The day after we arrived the first winter storms hit, which helped to bring the surf back up. Went for a fun surf at the beachie in Byron called “main beach”. Being that its school holiday there were a lot of groms frothing to do 540 reverse fakie McAirs on anything that pitched (or didn’t) I felt as though I had paddled into a pro junior event. Everyone seems to rip here.(see picture).
Surfed my beautiful new asymetrical Pendoflex fish 5-7 and 5-9 respectively with a double bump quad on the backhand and a 101 bamboo keel on the forehand. The thing GOES! And in a land of design laboratory test tank theory such as this it actually gets a good looking over quite a bit by the local mad scientists. My friends Steve and Cher Pendarvis worked hard to make this before our blast off. Steves first version which we based off of Christensen’s own fav asym fish came out a bit heavy and fuller than we’d have liked. So while I was still putting it through the test turns with the local Cardiff shredder crew on a perky Sunday morning south swell, Steeve was pulling his second all-nighter , “cramming” to get an A. By Monday morning I was presented with vers 1.2 . It was half the weight of the first, thinner, narrower, and a serious Pendopaint job ready for Byron and G land. Thanks you guys.
Surfed “The Pass” last night. Didn’t expect much from the view a mile away, but when I walked through the rocks around the point the ocean revealed a dredging righthander sucking the sand off the bottom and rocketing riders through a cavernous takeoff section that was reminiscent of La Conchita North side pier , or Sandspit with a heavy rip. Between squalls the sky opened up and peppered the lineup in pink reflective clouds turning the whitewater an electric cotton candy pink contrasting with a gun-metal gray glass-off, and black pits of destruction reeling before the deadly rock takeoff zone. Some of the best sessions seem to happen when you least expect it or when your expectations are zeroed out, such as today.