Here’s a post, part 1 of 2, catching you surfers up on Ian’s exploits in Southern New South Wales:
Me mates Pancho , South mission expat and our host, 80s Northern Beaches pro legend Matt Jones took a few “sickies” off to show me down the coast.
The tightly wound “onion” spinning between Tazzie and SA had just the millibars and distance to throw us a solid south swell. The weather seemed to be cooperating so it was off we went. After a few “flat whites” we began to see the size difference between the Sydney “beachies” and the more exposed Coal Coast, aptly named for the abundance of black stuff breaking off from its primordial slabs. Every point and reef was exploding with raw power with few takers to give us any size reference. After mind surfing several of the area’s standouts, we made our way south and discovered a few spots that we could paddle into. The swell was juicy and super consistent but it wasn’t all that clean being so close to the source. There was a lot of water moving about which made it an intense paddle and take off situation. When I did finally decide to “take one in” I simply stopped paddling as hard as I could and got swept down the point by the raging rapid-like current until getting hammered by the ten foot + shorebreak at the beachie a 1/4 mile in.
When we all returned to dry land I likened the experience more to white water rapids than an epic day the point. In the end we got to see some of the area’s reefs and points come to life. After all the driving and energy spent chasing waves we realized that a surgical 1 hr flight up the coast to Angourie or points north would’ve been more fruitful to let the swell even itself out . When I logged onto Swellnet afterwards I realized we had made the wrong choice. Everyone up that way calling the same swell “the best winter swell yet! “